Daryl was a young boy from the country in the 1960s working in some of Melbourne’s best fine dining restaurants – The Ritz as an apprentice, and The Legend as second chef. He came down to the city and just missed a job at the newly opened Southern Cross Hotel. Daryl was released from work one day a week to attend classes at William Angliss and he remembers starting on Valentine’s Day in 1964. He loved this as he always got the night off work on this day. He loved his work and felt ‘looked after’ by the owners and the staff. This was the era of fine dining in Melbourne. Daryl explains:
The Ritz was Italian but menus were mostly French. We served oysters, whiting caprice, beautifully prepared and cooked filet steak, Canard a l’orange … We also did some Guerdon work … things like crepe suzette and pepper steak and all vegetables were silver served. Menus were basically the same everywhere you went in Melbourne in those days. The Ritz only had male waiters and they were mostly European – I was the only Australian in the establishment!
He remembers being interviewed by Graham Dodgson and in his class was the first female apprentice chef. She was an apprentice at the Austin Hospital. To learn butchery the class visited the abattoirs. The subjects covered in his course were food theory, art – which he guesses was for designing menus – and business studies. “There was a lot of maths in Business Studies”, Daryl commented. He also studied Food Science and later in career he realised just how important food science was: “It is the hows and whys of cooking … Food science is not just about hygiene.”
Thinking back I applied myself diligently at work place but not here. [at William Angliss]. I regarded coming here as a day off. If I had missed a day at work I would have had my backside kicked … I found it hard to come off a heavy work shift at night then come to school in a white freshly ironed uniform at 8.00 am. It was hard to turn on learning capacity so early in the morning.
He attained a Certificate of Proficiency in the Trade of Cookery and stayed at The Ritz for two years. When it closed he went to work at The Legend along with most of The Ritz staff. At the Legend he served Australian artist Leonard French, a young Johnny Farhnam who was in the musical Pippin, Joe Cocker dined there and so did Pixie Scase. Jackie Onassis almost did …
After honing his cooking skills, marrying and starting a family, Daryl was asked by a friend who taught at William Angliss to come and teach commercial cookery one day a week. He stayed a year and really enjoyed teaching cooking.
When I was in a position where I could assist people I was happy to help – maybe it was because I was left behind as a kid … I loved teaching.
At the end of the year a job came up in Dandenong at the Tafe and he left to teach full time there.
Daryl’s daughter Renee who works at NLA in the Oral History and Folklore department, remembered being phoned by her father when he was working here on quiet nights and the family going in and dining at the Restaurant. When I met Daryl he and his wife were semi-retired and managing a property just out of Seymour. He was a student here in the 1960s and came back for a short time in the 1980s and taught.
Interviewee: Daryl Goldie
Date of Interview: 11/11/2011
Recording Format: MP3
0:25
Student Life at WAI
- Started as an apprentice cook in 1964; one day a week
- Apprenticeship at The Ritz restaurant
1:58
Fine dining in Melbourne 1960s
- Most restaurants had European chefs that came out with Olympics and stayed on
- European cuisine with menus that were mostly French and menus were basically the same everywhere you went; began to change with Asian influences
- Café dining was different, less formal, lunches mostly business focused
- Dinner more formal setup
6:20
Cooking as a Career Choice
- Originally from country Western Victoria; inspired to cook by housekeepers and decided to pursue it
- His uncle was a baker in South Australia and learnt skills before coming to Melbourne for apprenticeship
7:40
Reflecting on his apprenticeship
- Loved his job – chef was wonderful and very understanding
- Language problems - Staff mostly spoke Italian
10:35
Learning the trade at WAI
- Mismatch between apprenticeship learning and course at WAI
- He didn’t appreciate the theory then but now that has changed - was disciplined but didn’t apply himself very well; realised this while he was teaching, and the value of the college experience
- He was only 15 ½ when he started at WAI so age may have been a problem
- Applied for a position at The Menzies Institute first
- In his class was the first ever female apprentice cook; the class was mostly men and he can’t recall seeing another woman in a cookery class during his time as a student
- The butchery component included a trip to an abattoir to see the whole procedure; suggests this was stopped when more women began enrolling at WAI
19:05
Topics covered in class
- Subjects covered mostly theory, art classes, Business Studies, Food Science and hygiene
- Realised how important food science was now, looking back at the value now
- Applied himself diligently at work but was more relaxed about school; found it difficult to come off a heavy work shift the night before to settle into learning in a classroom
- Enjoyed theory aspects and practical but struggled with some associated subjects
24:00
Post Apprenticeship Career
- Graduated WAI with a Certificate of proficiency in the trade of cookery then stayed at the Ritz for 2 years; had the opportunity to meet lots of other Chefs (some very prominent) as many would come and pay respects in the kitchen; being in theatre district also meant that celebrities would come in to eat
- After the Ritz closed he worked at to Legend Café attached to the Continental hotel; stayed there for 3-4 years in the upstairs dining room and the bistro downstairs
- Then moved to Scales in Malvern for 3 years, to more straight shift work; Greek influenced food with a slight Asian/Japanese influence - cuisine was just starting to evolve
- Worked at Elgy’s Wine Tavern in Dandenong; clientele mostly business; lunches, Friday & Saturday nights were busy
47:19
Teaching at WAI
- A friend who was teaching at William Angliss and needed someone to fill in for him while he set up another business asked Daryl to replace him
- Taught the basic Commercial Cookery Course - team teaching, interviewed by George Hill and ended up staying on and did the rest of the year for 4 days a week
- Decided that he really liked it and went onto teach at Hawthorn Institute for nearly 10 years
- Wasn’t all that interested in progressing up the ladder – he really enjoyed the student contact – working with students and seeing them get into where they wanted to go
52:00
Reflections on the changing course
- There was a change in the teaching curriculum from when he was a student at WAI; has become more industry related or focused now
- Introduction of a national curriculum that was competency based; general standards raised
- Focused on teaching those students that struggled with techniques; loved this aspect of teaching
1:01:28
A few career highlights
- For a time in early 90’s owned Berton’s Seafood Restaurant in Brighton; felt the need to get that out of my system; sold it then I went to the second chef position
- In ’95 we went to Norfolk Island and leased RSL kitchen and for a year; employed local people and did really well
- Managed the Burrawang West Station, homestead and quarters for 4 years
1:07:50
Highlight of professional life
- Highlights were the people he has met and being able to see people grow professionally and being able to give something back
- Enjoyed teaching and became reinvigorated to go back to industry
1:12:31
End of Interview